“We can try more things if we share,” suggested Sheraton, surveying the menu. Joshua Russ Tepper, a third-generation owner, came over to make sure Sheraton was comfortable, shooting our waiters a silent visual cue: Take care of Mimi. Even behind the convenient cover of his hipster glasses, Bowien was clearly as starstruck as I was. i angled my way through a pack of weekend fressers at Russ & Daughters Café on Orchard Street-the sit-down offshoot of the legendary appetizing store on the Lower East Side-to find Sheraton chatting with Danny Bowien, one of New York’s hottest young chefs. Contrite, like a server apologizing for bad service. Tongue-tied, as if she had just eaten a mouthful of sticky peanut butter. In my mind, I imagined the review she would draft of our initial encounter: Distasteful lack of punctuality. A New York snowstorm and unexpected subway trouble had conspired against me as I raced down an icy sidewalk to breakfast with the legendary food writer and restaurant critic. You don’t want to be running late for a first meeting with Mimi Sheraton, but that’s just the predicament I found myself in on a wintry Sunday morning.
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